Exploring Nairn

Small boats and sailboats docked in a peaceful harbor at low tide in Nairn, Scotland, with reflections in the still water, a row of caravans in the background, and a dramatic sky with blue patches and clouds overhead.

Seaside views, forest trails, and local legend.

Dear Jane,

Isle of Skye was at the top of my list for scenic vistas in Scotland, but the logistics for getting there on the weekend and getting around the island just didn’t work in my favor. I tried to see if I could see some of the Hebrides Islands in a short period of time, and no, the ferry schedule was worse than the bus schedule for Skye.

Small boats and sailboats docked in a peaceful harbor at low tide in Nairn, Scotland, with reflections in the still water, a row of caravans in the background, and a dramatic sky with blue patches and clouds overhead.
Nairn harbor.

Luckily, I came across The Chaotic Scot’s post about the Moray Coast. The village of Cullen looked especially beautiful, but I didn’t think I’d be able to spend enough time there because it takes two and a half to four hours to reach from Inverness on the weekend, and that’s just one way. Curse weekend scheduling!

Somewhere in her blog, she mentioned Nairn, a seaside town that had its heyday during the Victorian era. I decided that was the place for me after learning about its beautiful beaches, historic “old town” called Fishtown (don’t get too caught up in that though, everything is old in Scotland), and the several walks, both in town and in the surrounding area.

Cloudy sky over Nairn Beach in Scotland, with seaweed along the shoreline, a sandy beach, and the town’s historic rooftops and church spires in the background.
Nairn’s Fishertown and Central Beach.

Getting to Nairn

Perhaps best of all, Nairn was just 20 minutes from Inverness by train. Easy, right? A couple of weeks before I landed in Scotland, ScotRail announced a change in schedule to (cancelation of) every train ticket I’d booked during my trip. I opted to cancel my roundtrip ticket to Nairn because ScotRail was incredibly confusing about what other itinerary my ticket could be exchanged for.

Fast-forward to the morning I had planned to go to Nairn: I walked into the Inverness rail station to discover that the original itinerary I’d booked for was changed by a few minutes. I rolled my eyes, re-bought my tickets, and then promptly sat on the train for 45 minutes before being kicked off due to a regional power outage.

Was this a sign? Should I not go to Nairn? I ended up checking out Urquhart Castle and Loch Ness that day. And I tried to get to Nairn the following day.

I was successful.

Detailed map of Nairn, Scotland, showing town attractions, suggested walking routes, parks, beaches, and leisure facilities like West Links and Nairn Leisure Centre.

Exploring Nainshire

My walk of choice was the East Beach to Kingsteps trail, and I got lost because the directions are a bit vague. They say to walk on the beach, and that’s exactly what I did, soaking in the incredible views and sense of serenity of the beach itself. If I hadn’t been wearing a down coat, hiking boots, and some layers, I wouldn’t have believed this beach was on the northern coast of Scotland.

Two people walking along the shore at Nairn Beach in Scotland, with coastal cliffs and farmland visible across the Moray Firth under a partly cloudy sky.
Views of and from East Beach.

About 45 minutes into my stroll along the shore, I realized that I was supposed to have been looking for a “faint trail” that would take me into the Culbin Forest. I only saw overgrown sand dunes between me and the woods.

I climbed up a sand dune and stepped through the brush, looking for a path to take me to the Culbin Forest. Over the sand dune, I found a creek winding through what I later learned was a wildlife sanctuary. The area was flat, grassy, and muddy, and there were horse prints and little sinkholes everywhere.

The wildlife sanctuary.

The sinkholes revived a childhood memory of a time when my friend and I were playing in the woods behind my dad’s house. It was snowy out and we were walking, and then I suddenly found myself four feet into the ground, in a perfect circle of a hole. My friend helped me out, and we went back inside. Good times.

With that uneasy feeling, I navigated through the refuge to a gravel path that did take me into Culbin Forest. Right when I felt my hike was starting to begin, I found myself at a four-way crossing. The website alludes to turning left a few times, but no mention of a crossing.

Narrow dirt path winding through dense greenery and tall pine trees in Culbin Forest, a tranquil woodland walk near Nairn in northern Scotland.
This way?
Peaceful forest path winding through tall pine trees in Culbin Forest near Nairn, Scotland, with sunlight filtering through the canopy and lush greenery lining the trail.
This way?
Woodland trail winding through tall pine trees and lush undergrowth in Culbin Forest, near Nairn in the Scottish Highlands.
Or this way?

Man’s Best Friend?

I felt like turning back because getting lost in the woods was not of interest to me in the moment. But then a dog ran past me, and I followed it.

If I had heard of Cù Sith before that moment, well, I wouldn’t have followed the dog. I also would have immediately recognized that the universe was trying to help me out with all these train issues.

Cù Sith is an otherworldly big black dog that makes its home in the Scottish Highlands. It, along with many other black dogs in Scottish folklore, is thought to be an omen of death.

The dog I followed was brown and disappeared as quickly as it had appeared. I chose the path it had gone down, which took me through the woods, past a house, and ultimately ended at the East Beach car park.

With dark clouds starting to form, I decided to end my hike in pursuit of some warm food. The Chaotic Scot had recommended the Strathnairn Beach Café, which was across Central Beach from where I was.

The café was sold out of Cullen Skink, a local soup I’d wanted to try, so I went with a soft-serve ice cream cone. Not the comfort I was going for, but it kept me aptly chilled as I researched the significance of dogs as guides in Scotland.

I was relaying this experience to my friend Dan, and he told me about a dog legend closer to home. There’s a hiking area in Connecticut called Hanging Hills. The ghost dog there is also black, but it’s small, and you have to see it three times before you die. Those odds are better than what you’ll get in Scotland.

Dogs are wonderful companions, and I somewhat understand how this could have come about in the early human-dog relationship. But now you’ve been warned for your next trip to Scotland. If you see a dog where you wouldn’t expect to see a dog, you can run or accept your fate.

<3 Katherine

PS – If you want another spooky story, read about the haunted tunnel in Kyoto and my hike on the other side.

Tourist map of Nairnshire, Scotland, highlighting suggested walks, cycling routes, beaches, forests, and attractions like Cawdor Castle, Brodie Castle, and Culbin Forest.
Small boats and sailboats docked in a peaceful harbor at low tide in Nairn, Scotland, with reflections in the still water, a row of caravans in the background, and a dramatic sky with blue patches and clouds overhead.
Cloudy sky over Nairn Beach in Scotland, with seaweed along the shoreline, a sandy beach, and the town’s historic rooftops and church spires in the background.
Detailed map of Nairn, Scotland, showing town attractions, suggested walking routes, parks, beaches, and leisure facilities like West Links and Nairn Leisure Centre.
Two people walking along the shore at Nairn Beach in Scotland, with coastal cliffs and farmland visible across the Moray Firth under a partly cloudy sky.
Horse hoofprints in damp grass at Culbin Sands, Scotland, with a pair of hiking shoes at the bottom of the frame, capturing a quiet moment on a nature trail.
Scenic walking trail through grassy fields and woodlands under a partly cloudy blue sky in Culbin Forest, Scotland, ideal for peaceful hikes and nature photography.
Peaceful forest path winding through tall pine trees in Culbin Forest near Nairn, Scotland, with sunlight filtering through the canopy and lush greenery lining the trail.
Narrow dirt path winding through dense greenery and tall pine trees in Culbin Forest, a tranquil woodland walk near Nairn in northern Scotland.
Woodland trail winding through tall pine trees and lush undergrowth in Culbin Forest, near Nairn in the Scottish Highlands.
Hand holding a soft-serve vanilla ice cream cone with blue syrup, taken outdoors near a fenced playground on a sunny day in Scotland.

Katherine

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